Wi-Fi WFM: Support

First Things First:

Starting with version 3, Wi-Fi WFM changed into FieldMonitor. If you update your copy of Wi-Fi WFM, its name and icon will change, but no functionality is lost: FieldMonitor does everything Wi-Fi WFM did, and more.

Is Wi-Fi WFM not installing / not starting / crashing on your iDevice? Try a reset: hold down the power and home buttons until the screen goes dark, and keep holding them down until the Apple logo appears (about 10 seconds overall). After your iDevice comes back up, try Wi-Fi WFM again.

Important info:

You need a Teradek H.264 transmitter (Cube 100, 200, 500, or 600 series, Clip, or VidiU) to use this app. Without a Teradek H.264 transmitter, this app doesn't do anything useful!

Wi-Fi WFM only displays the compressed H.264 feed from a Teradek Cube, Clip, or VidiU. Uncompressed video from a Bolt is not supported.

H.265 / HEVC compression (Cube 700 and 800 series) is not supported.

Problems:

My Teradek doesn't appear in the Source list:

Check to make sure you’re on the same wireless network as your Teradek (the app's current Wi-Fi network is shown at the top of the Source screen).
Sometimes it takes a while for a Teradek to appear in the list. Try waiting for a while after starting the app. If your Teradek has just been turned on or reconfigured, it may take a minute for it to fully start up and transmit a signal.
Try turning Wi-Fi off, then on again.
Only Teradek H.264 transmitters can be used: Cube, Clip, and VidiU. Wi-Fi WFM can't decode uncompressed video from Bolt transmitters.
If your Teradek restarts or its network has changed, Wi-Fi WFM may get confused. Try closing and re-opening Wi-Fi WFM, or turning Wi-Fi off and then on again.
Make sure your Teradek is sending a signal you can receive. Older iDevices don't have 5 GHz networking, only 2.4 GHz. I've had a Cube set for “Auto (2.4 GHz)”, yet it insisted on using a 5 GHz channel. I had to manually set it to channel 1 before an iPhone 4S could connect.
If all else fails, try factory-resetting your Teradek.

I can't connect / no picture ever appears! You may see a black screen, or the blue “Buffering” screen never changes:

Cube: only Quickview, Teradek Stream (a.k.a. TDS), and RTP/RTSP streams are supported. Best fix: enable Quickview streaming from your Cube, and turn Quickview ON in Wi-Fi WFM.
Cube: RTSP stream is password-protected. Wi-Fi WFM can't receive a password-protected RTSP stream. Either turn off RTSP authentication, or enable Quickview on the Cube and turn Quickview ON in Wi-Fi WFM.
Cube: if UDP Multicast is enabled, enable Quickview on the Cube and turn Quickview ON in the app, or the app will never connect.
Cube or Clip: TDS streams don't play: make sure your Cube or Clip firmware is up to date (some older versions of firmware no longer detect when updates are available; check the Teradek website directly and see if there's a newer version than your transmitter is currently running). TDS streams are tricky; it sometimes takes many attempts before they'll play, and sometimes you need to reboot the Teradek before it'll connect. If you can use RTP/RTSP or Quickview, those usually (often? sometimes?) connect more reliably.
Only Teradek H.264 transmitters can be used: Cube, Clip, and VidiU. Only Quickview, RTP/RTSP, and TDS streams can be decoded. Wi-Fi WFM can't decode uncompressed video from Bolt transmitters, or H.265 / HEVC from Cube 700 or 800 series transmitters.
Sometimes the encoders get confused (especially if you change their inputs while they're running). Try turning the Teradek off, then on again.
If all else fails, try factory-resetting your Teradek.

Picture appears, but 'scopes are blank (picture may refresh intermittently and/or change size or aspect ratio): This can occur with TDS streams in version 1.0 of the app. Please update to the latest version, which should solve the problem—if it doesn’t, please contact me.

Picture is frozen (and may say “Paused” or “Reconnect to source”): This happens if you slide Control Center or Notification Center over the app, or use Slide Over or Split Screen on iPad. It can also happen if the connection to the Teradek is lost or weak. Go back to the Source screen and re-select your source to restart the video.

Picture updates slowly: Try selecting a lower Refresh Rate, to free up more time for image decoding and display. If that doesn’t work, try reconnecting to the source; closing and re-opening the app (when you close it, it quits, so you don’t need to force-quit it); restarting your Teradek; reconfiguring the Wi-Fi network to minimize congestion (try switching between the 2.4 and 5 GHz channels) or increase range (usually better with 2.4 GHz channels). If you’re using a Cube, try using Quickview instead of TDS or RTSP streams, or reduce the resolution of the main stream from 1080 lines to 720 or 480 lines.

’Scopes update slowly: Try selecting a higher Refresh Rate (but note that faster ’scope refreshing uses more power and may cause picture decoding errors, especially on older, slower iDevices).

Picture quality is poor (pixellated, torn, blocky, intermittent freezes, etc.): Poor signal quality, overloaded Wi-Fi network, and/or overworked iDevice.

The single most important factor in getting a good picture from a Teradek is selecting a clear Wi-Fi channel, free from interference and congestion. Try manually setting a transmit channel (use a Wi-Fi scanner on Windows, Mac, or Android to find a clear channel). If you don't have a scanner, try changing from Auto 2.4 GHz to Auto 5 GHz, or vice versa (note: iPhone 4S can’t receive 5GHz Wi-Fi).
Using a separate Wi-Fi router is usually better than using the Teradek in Master mode: the Teradek's own Wi-Fi signal is weaker and more subject to interference than that of a standalone router or access point.
Older, slower iDevices may not be able to handle a high workload: when the ’scopes take too much time, picture quality suffers and image decoding can fail. Turn Quickview ON, set Refresh Rate to its minimum value (about 2 fps), and show only a single ’scope instead of all three. If you’re then able to receive a clean picture, try gradually increasing Refresh Rate. With a slow refresh rate and a single ’scope, Wi-Fi WFM can be used successfully on an iPod touch 5G, iPhone 4S, or iPad 3. Newer, more powerful iDevices will work better, show more ’scopes without problems, and update their displays faster.

There's no false-color settings button: You need an iDevice with an A7 or later processor to show false color: iPhone 5S or later, iPod touch 6G or later, iPad Air or later, iPad mini 2 or later, or iPad Pro. Also, versions before 2.0 don’t offer false color.

Something else is wrong / broken / puzzling! Contact me so I can fix the problem and/or answer your questions! (If your email isn’t answered within a day or two, it may have fallen into a spam-trap; try contacting @adamwilt on Twitter instead.)

Need more help?

Controls shows you Wi-Fi WFM's buttons, gestures, and settings, and explains how they work.
How To... describes how to use Wi-Fi WFM and shows some examples.
FAQ lists some frequently asked questions and their answers.
Details & Info talks about how Wi-Fi WFM works and what its limitations are, gives tips and tricks for using it, and lists the open-source libraries used and where to find them.

If none of these solve your problem, please contact me!